Sunning Monarchs

Sunning Monarchs. Photo by Bob Bowers.

Michoacán El Rosario Mountain Sanctuary is a Magical Experience…

The present Monarch Butterfly Biosphere Reserve was established in 2000, and consists of more than 138,000 acres of high mountain area along the border between the states of Michoacán and Mexico. More than 150 million Monarch butterflies from North America winter in this area, which can be accessed by the public at four sanctuaries. One of the most accessible sites is El Rosario Sanctuary near the villages of Anganguero and Ocampo, not far from Morelia.

The Monarch Butterfly Migration

The average life span of a Monarch butterfly is about four weeks, but the generation born at the end of August, known as the “Methuselah” generation, survives nearly eight months. This miraculous change allows this one generation to live long enough to fly up to two thousand miles south in order to escape the northern winters that would otherwise kill them. Flying up to seventy five miles a day and enduring wind, storms and predators, they arrive at the same Oyamel fir forests where their great-great-great grandparents migrated twelve months earlier.

The butterflies, coming from millions of dispersed acres across the United States and Canada, winter within small concentrated colonies that in aggregate typically consist of less than twenty acres. The Monarchs live in the high mountains of Mexico from early November until the latter part of February, when they begin their journey back. Although the colonies are relatively stable through January, when temperatures begin to rise in February, the butterflies float away from the branches, filling the air with a magical display of color.

The El Rosario Monarch Butterfly Sanctuary

El Rosario, a sanctuary near the small villages of Angangueo and Ocampo, is an easily accessible place to see millions of these Monarchs. The two villages are about 5 miles apart, and are just east of Ciudad Hildalgo, which is about 60 miles east of Morelia. It is possible to reach this area as a day trip from Morelia or Mexico City, but because of the high altitude, it is recommended that visitors stay in the area at least one night prior to hiking up to the butterflies. The village of Anganguero is at 8,300 feet and the butterflies are found at nearly 11,000 feet.

The Road to El Rosario in Central Mexico

Local drivers are available in Anganguero and Ocampo, and currently charge about 450 pesos (about 30 dollars) to drive a couple to the sanctuary and back. However, the road is only six miles long from Ocampo, is paved with cobblestones and is easy to drive in any vehicle. To access the road, return to Ocampo (if you are staying in Anganguero) and follow the El Rosario signs.

The road passes through the ejido of El Rosario, where the locals will collect a thirty peso “toll”. Continue through the village and park at either of two large, well marked parking areas. The second one is further up a small winding dirt road, but it will shorten your hike.

The Trail to the Butterfly Trees at El Rosario

From the upper parking lot, you can see the arched entrance to the sanctuary, as well as a line of craft shops to the right. The entrance is at just over 10,000 feet altitude, and it can be chilly in February, so layered clothing is a good idea. You should also carry at least a quart of water per person, energy bars or other snacks and a camera. If you are interested in birds, bring your binoculars as well, since there are many species of birds to be seen along the trail.

When you pay your entrance fee (35 pesos), a guide will be provided at no additional cost. His job is more to accompany you than to explain anything, and he will patiently wait for you to take as long as you wish hiking up the trail.

The trail is very well designed and built, with wide steps and many interpretive signs in English as well as Spanish. The one mile trail climbs through pines, oaks and firs, then crosses a beautiful meadow before arriving at the end, just under 10,800 feet in altitude.

Clusters of Monarch Butterflies in the Oyamel Firs

At the roped-off end of the trail, you will see enormous clusters of butterflies hanging like leaves from the Oyamel fir trees. These are impressive enough, but if you are lucky the sun will break through and the air temperature warm up enough to stir the Monarchs away from their roosts. When this happens, the air fills with a cascade of golden butterflies, a truly moving and magical moment. If you stand motionless, butterflies likely will land on your head or hand as well.