A short bus ride from Toluca or Mexico City, 20 km east of Tenancingo, this small colonial pueblo is a true find. Malinalco is in the mountains southwest of Mexico City and was taken over in the late 1500’s by the Spanish. There are many churches and a converted Augustinian monastery, but perhaps the most inspiring architecture is that of the Aztec Temple of the Eagle and Jaguar Warrior. The temple is located one kilometer above the town and was a ritual center for the Aztecs for the induction of their young warriors. It is probably one of the better-preserved temples because it is practically hidden from view from the town below and is built into the top of the mountain. Another interesting fact is that the Temple itself is monolithic. The main church (the converted monastery) features murals and frescos painted by converted Indians, which serve as a poignant example of their own rituals and imagery infused with those of the dominating Catholic Church. Interestingly, the paintings located in the alcove of the church are exclusively black and white.
The town itself has beautiful weather, very cool and breezy, and quite chilly at night. Surprisingly, there are very few tourists. On Wednesdays, a local market springs up in the center of town featuring a colorful array of all the goods and foods found in the surrounding areas. A day in Malinalco could include a walk around the town snapping photos of beautiful local architecture and taking a coffee on the Square, which centers around one of the most picturesque gazebos in Mexico. The town really is a photographer’s dream, especially if you are into churches. The view from the Temple is one of the most spectacular I have seen. The surrounding landscape is beautiful and hiking trails are abundant. There are posadas (rooms in private homes) and a few low-priced hotels. Several reasonably priced restaurants can be found right off the main square. This wanderer highly recommends Malinalco for a true taste of Mexican history and culture.
-November 1999
